Trail Report: Mist Trail After A Snowstorm

A couple weeks ago Yosemite National Park announced that the Mist Trail had opened. With our current drought, this early opening wasn't too surprising - and I was thrilled! I could see via the webcams that both Half Dome and Clouds Rest still had snow on them, and I was eager to make my way to the top of one of these iconic landmarks and photograph the remnants of winter. (Yes, the John Muir Trail could have been an option earlier in the season, but nothing beats the scenery along the Mist.)

We planned our day hike and were set to go when the heavens opened up and dumped much-needed water and snow on the Bay Area and Yosemite. We opted to go anyway, but we had to alter our plan. For starters, rain and snow plus freezing temperatures meant that the Mist would be treacherous in the dark with potential ice-covered stone steps, so we had to scratch our plan to start from the trailhead before 5AM. We also didn't know what we would find higher up on the trail, so with the later leaving time and the unknown trail conditions, we had to resign ourselves to a plan to hike to the top of Vernal Fall, Nevada Fall, and ultimately into Little Yosemite Valley - but no Half Dome or Clouds Rest. I'm a weekend warrior and had to allow enough time at the end of our hike to drive home and get enough rest before work the next day.

Without the stress of needing to make it to the top of Half Dome or Clouds Rest, I found myself really enjoying this hike and taking time to stop and smell the roses - or, in this case, stop and enjoy the snow.

Along the only paved part of the trail, from trailhead to the Vernal Fall footbridge
Yosemite Fall from the bend in the trail
Oh my goodness. We left the trailhead around 7AM and were immediately greeted by an almost unfamiliar landscape, despite having done this trail more times than I care to count now. It is an entirely different experience after a snowstorm!

Mr. Petite Peaker crossing the Vernal Fall footbridge - and making fresh footprints!
Though the change of scenery was surprising, what was perhaps more so was the quiet. For our entire hike to the top of Vernal, we didn't run into a single hiker - completely unheard of for this trail! I'm not sure you could plan this time of solitude along the Mist Trail. Above Vernal we ran into a grand total of five backpackers before stopping for lunch in Little Yosemite Valley.

Vernal Fall makes its majestic appearance
The rising sun peeking through the trees at the top of Vernal
The steps up to the top of Vernal were a little icy but not any more slippery than they are when the waterfall is at its height. We made our way up and then continued along the Mist Trail to the top of Nevada.

Putting fresh footprints on the Nevada Fall footbridge and marveling at the back of a bright and snowy Half Dome showing us a sliver of its top
We seemed to be ascending with the sun! If you are familiar with how difficult some of those Nevada Fall steps are, you may think they seem even more difficult in the snow (and you'd be right).
Top of Nevada Fall
Sadly, after we lunched in Little Yosemite Valley, we opted to return via the John Muir Trail. This was a decision I knew we would have to make as we were ascending the tricky area to the top of Nevada, but goodness knows I still wanted to cry when Mr. Petite Peaker uttered those three words, "John Muir Trail." Though we plan on thru-hiking all 215 miles of it, I am not a fan of the JMT in this area. One blogger (I wish I remembered which one) likened taking the JMT instead of the Mist on the way down as "sacrificing your toes for the sake of your knees," which feels pretty accurate to me. 

That being said, the JMT was significantly easier on the toes since it was snow covered. And, there can be no question that the best views of Nevada Fall are from the JMT. 

Nevada Fall from the JMT
When we returned to the junction with the Mist, we found that rangers had closed down the Mist due to treacherous conditions. Also on our descent, we ran into many, many hikers on their way up the JMT to the top of either Vernal or Nevada, so we considered ourselves blessed to have left so early when the Mist was still open, the snow was still unmelted, and the trail was serenely devoid of other hikers.

We arrived at the junction to find our path up, the Mist Trail, closed - and the trees along it had totally shed their snow!
Right back where we started from: the Vernal Fall footbridge, some six hours after we started on this adventure, had replaced its snow with tourists
This was an amazing hike. I was reminded of the words of John Muir, who said that "In every walk with nature, one receives far more than he seeks." We planned this trip seeking to stand atop Clouds Rest; what we received instead was a blissful hike through familiar places made brand new to us. If ever you have the chance to hike through Yosemite after a snowstorm, don't pass it up!





Trail Report: Mt. Eddy

We are definitely in the midst of the hiking off-season, when high-elevation treks are generally impossible without ice axes and crampons. Since we have also had a very dry run in California, though, I thought it might be worthwhile to see if there were any modest peaks that might be possible to bag (without technical equipment) in preparation for our Kilimanjaro climb next month.

Enter Mt. Eddy, the highest peak of the Trinity Mountains in the Klamath range. This mountain is typically ignored in favor of its more famous (and impressive) neighbors, Mt. Shasta (the highest peak in the California portion of the Cascade range) and Mt. Lassen (the first peak over 10,000 feet that Mr. Petite Peaker and I bagged!), but at 9,025 feet, I thought it just might be doable in the (as-of-yet) drought conditions of this winter.

I found relatively little information about the Eddy hike online, and nothing about current conditions. Calls to Shasta-Trinity National Forest went unanswered. The Wikipedia entry for Eddy mentions "heavy snowfall," but when I researched the Mt. Shasta Ski Park, I found that it is currently closed due to lack of snow. So we packed our day packs in hopeful anticipation of a ten-mile hike and started our four-hour drive at 5:00 AM.

I pulled to the side of the road while on I-5 at dawn to capture the sky and the incredible formations of the migrating Canadian geese.
To reach the trailhead from I-5N (we were traveling from the San Francisco area), exit Edgewood-Gazelle (exit 751) and turn left onto Stewart Springs Road. The road was a little bit icy, but it was nothing compared to the ice and slush that awaited after we turned right onto Forest Road 17. (This is the road we were trying to contact the National Forest about; it can be closed in the winter due to icy or snowy conditions and such a closure would have made our trek impossible.) Continue uphill on this road for about ten miles to the trailhead.

At the trailhead, a Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) sign marks the trail, though there is no mention of Mt. Eddy. Head toward Dead Fall Lakes.

The easy first portion of the trail, headed toward Dead Fall Lakes.
The trail was an easy three miles to the first of the lakes, which was completely frozen and looked great for ice skating. We ran into three couples who were doing a loop around the lake; they then headed back and we ran into no one else on our way to the summit or on our return trip.

After passing by two more lakes (also frozen) higher up and several icy/snowy patches, we came across the summit trail junction (the first mention of Mt. Eddy) and made our final ascent. If I were to label the first three miles of this hike as "easy," I would categorize the remaining two to the summit as "moderately difficult," though I may have felt differently if there were no ice. There are frustrating switchbacks at the end, at a point where it looks like you could just jog straight up to the summit - but it's steeper than it looks, and I have no doubt that the switchbacks are helpful.

Mr. Petite Peaker throwing stones on the second frozen lake; yes, it's really solid!
The third and final frozen lake we encountered, with the summit in view.
Don't get discouraged at this point; though the summit looks to be a long way, it's less than two miles from here.
The first mention of Mt. Eddy. Shortly after this point, you'll reach the switchbacks of the final stretch.
The summit of Mt. Eddy was cold and windy, but snow free. (Snow could be seen on other parts of the summit ridge.) The view of Mt. Shasta was absolutely stunning, perhaps even more so because you don't get this view from the trail at all - you have to set foot on the summit for the tremendous payoff.

With our backs to Mt. Shasta, looking out at the ridge from the summit of Mt. Eddy.
That view!
Mr. Petite Peaker found the summit marker after I had given up hope that we'd find it.
Though stunning, Mt. Shasta also made me sad. It should not be so dry in January. We need some major snow and rain to come our way in the next few months!

Two musts for a great hiking trip: an incredible view and an even more incredible trekking partner.
The five-mile return trip to the trailhead was pleasant (though it felt long), and all in all this was a very worthwhile day trip and hike, especially at a time when there is little snow and my lungs were craving some heavy use.